


A fascinating trip to do in New York, starting from Soho, is to walk through Chinatown, Lower East Side, an old immigrants’ district, on to the Williamsburg bridge which leads to Brooklyn. Lower East Side and Williamsburg are two cool areas – LES has become gentrified in recent years but used to be an old Jewish district – signs of which you can see in the oldest deli in NYC, Katz’s, a smoked salmon and fish specialist, Russ and Daughters and where people have bought knishes from 1910, Yonah Schimmel’s. The Lower East Side Tenement Museum offers a history of what it was like when the immigrants (from mostly Eastern Europe and Russia) descended on these parts. Williamsburg on the other side of the bridge is a hip area which has one of the highest concentrations of artists and musicians in the USA. It has a relaxed vibe contrasting with the hectic pulse of Manhattan. You will find hip cafes, bars, music venues, bric a brac and markets, all close to the East River Park which boasts a stunning view of Manhattan. Williamsburg has been described as the Haight Ashbury of New York City and it is an interesting area to hang out in for a few hours. From East River Park, you can take a ferry for 8 dollars, which takes you either downtown or uptown. I opted for uptown as I had a reservation at the Russian Tea Room.
Previously, I had not endeavoured to explore any Russian elements of the city. Russia is usually seen as the anti-thesis of America – well, during the old Cold War. The Russian Tea Room is like something out of David Kronenbourg’s Eastern Promises film. It is beautifully ornate, draped in Tsarist Imperial colours, golden eagles and vermilion banquettes, chandeliers and gold-framed abstract paintings make up the rest of the scene. There is also a second floor containing a lavish banqueting hall open for private functions. The food served at the Tea Room include delicacies such as caviar and seafood and, of course, there are some fine samples of tea from around the world.
The next day, continuing the Russian theme, I took the Q train from Bleecker Street to Brighton Beach, Brooklyn. A very uninformed receptionist at The James told me ‘there’s nothing to do in Brighton Beach and it’ll be cold’. To the contrary, the weather fairy must have been in town because it became a hot day – perfect for exploring. Brighton Beach is where you can see a real immigrant community in action, almost like a historical slice of several generations of an ex-Soviet Union state. Russian is spoken everywhere and underneath the rattling rail-tracks, you get the feeling you are somewhere special and unique in NYC if not the whole of America. There are babushkas manning road side stalls, men dressed in 80s style leather jackets frequenting food shops, signs in Cyrillic everywhere, hair and nail salons, supermarkets selling pickles and vodka and everyone looks as if they’re in a time warp circa 1980s. It is not only the Russian Jewish community living here but also Uzbeks, Kyrgystanis, Ukrainians, Georgians – the whole mixture of the ex-Soviet Union, decamped in NYC right next to one of the oldest American institutions, Coney Island. The dichotomy of something so foreign and alien sitting next to a traditional US fairground park is endearing.

Brighton Beach itself stretches a couple of miles to Coney Island, where on a sunny October afternoon, all that separated me from the Atlantic Ocean was a strip of golden sand and a boardwalk full of strolling Russians. Along the beachfront are the two arch-rival restaurants Volne and Tatiana. I tried the Ukrainian borscht in Tatiana and it was just as good as any I have had in Russia. Watching the old men playing chess near a school playground reminded me of being in Russia so much. You really are extricated from New York when visiting Brighton Beach.

New York is constantly full of surprises – its streets are energetic in a way not matched in Europe. Returning to London always seems like coming back to a sleepy village. Until the next time.
Shuab Parvez – November 2011